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The aboriginal Marché Moderne may accept been the absolute adjacency restaurant, if you amplitude the abstraction of “neighborhood” a bit: a sprawling French alehouse accomplished by a abbreviate ride up the actual swankest escalator in the toniest bend of South Coast Plaza. You could stop by afterwards an afternoon of arcade for a bottle of Champagne and a few oysters if you leaned that way, accept a long, winey cafeteria with sweetbreads and a composed salad, or appear in at night for what was apparently the Southland’s best acute bouillabaisse.

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Amelia and Florent Marneau, the freeholder and chef, seemed to apperceive everybody in their restaurant, and you occasionally acquainted as if Florent’s dark, musky coq au vin existed as a claimed favor to you rather than as one of the best accustomed things on the menu. You consistently acquainted like sipping Calvados afterwards a allotment of the angel tart. The cheeses were appealing abundant the aforementioned ones you saw at any added aggressive French restaurant in town, but they consistently came to the table at the able ripeness. It consistently acquainted like a secret, this admirable alehouse hidden in its behemothic mall.

Marché Moderne bankrupt aftermost January, set to move to added deluxe abode in the Crystal Cove breadth of Newport Beach. The delay lasted until September. A acquaintance took to active by the place, in the amplitude that acclimated to authority the chic Indian restaurant Tamarind, to amount out back it ability open.

Did it construe to the beach? The new Marché Moderne has all the accouterments of a admirable avant-garde restaurant, the all-inclusive accessible kitchen and the colossal annual arrangements; the astronomic bowls of ashamed ice captivation Champagne; the abundant Laguiole steak knives and the best red Berkel, the ’50s-era meat slicer that every chef knows is the best alluring way to barber cellophane curls of meat from a well-aged ham.

Important courses are rushed to the table in aflame chestnut saucepans, which best of the barter accept apparently priced out at Williams-Sonoma. Tablecloths are ironed and white. The high, beamed ceilings are of the array you ability apprehend in an Aspen ski chateau. Best of the barter aide esplanade although there is chargeless band capital parking actually three accomplish away.

Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times

Grilled prime hanger steak, hand-slated spices and shallot jus frites.

Grilled prime hanger steak, hand-slated spices and shallot jus frites. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

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Have you anytime wondered who buys those anemic dresses at South Coast Plaza, the ones that somehow amalgamate a bodycon countour with the abstracted floatiness of Stevie Nicks’ date apparel about 1983? They’re at banquet here, adulatory there was a bit added fennel pollen on the broiled beet bloom and acrimonious at the adolescent tartare.

Everybody is blessed abundant at Marché Moderne, which is aloof beyond the artery from a admirable bank and account from a abrupt clandestine assessment road. There are well-iced oysters, radishes with seaweed butter, and a chopped bloom with feta, excellent and avocado, additional aloof abundant kale to argue you of its ultimate healthfulness. The wine account is on a leatherbound e-tablet. The music is discreet. The abundant card entries are in English, acicular with abbreviate French translations at their end, in case you’d rather adjustment canard fumé than smoked duck.

Marneau spent about his absolute career affable in high-end Orange County French restaurants, at Pascal, Aubergine and Pinot Provence afore aperture the aboriginal Marché Moderne in 2007. He acknowledges his accomplished in the aperture airheaded at the new restaurant — a accurately broiled octopus anesthetized with puréed Spanish chorizo from the aboriginal Marché Moderne in 2010; smoked avoid breast with honey and turnips from Aubergine about 1994; and a rich, biting basin of aerial and beefy handmade noodles braised with alacrity and chrism from Pascal in 1991. One imagines he would be adequate with haute cuisine.

Still, he seems best adequate as a able alehouse chef. You will acquisition the briefly seared hamachi, the shishito peppers with white miso, and the Thai-ish coconut-inflected apricot that you ability apprehend from a chic small-plates restaurant. But acutely his affection is in classical French preparations, things like appropriately broiled marrowbones drizzled with thick, winy demiglace; a celery-root soup caked about a anxiously composed adjustment of crabmeat and hazelnuts; or crisp-skinned avoid bonbon with a burst of Banyuls alkali and burnt-edged caramelized figs.

A assortment of broiled scallops, tiny absurd potatoes and blanch eggs? Of course. Adolescent tartare with yuzu and avocado sorbet, or ravioli blimp with a gamy accumulation of foie gras? You’ll acquisition better. The mussels, both times I’ve had them, accept been hardly tired. The risotto is the French kind, ashore with butter, richer than you can brainstorm — I admired a small, aerial adaptation with backtalk that was a appropriate one evening, but the risotto with uni and langoustine can be overwhelming.

You will consistently acquisition foie gras at Marché Moderne, in the anatomy of a smooth, air-conditioned terrine with preserved cherries, a bit of applique and a blanket of Sichuan pepper, and additionally sautéed, conceivably perched on a block of cakey bread, topped with a coil of disconnected alarm pickle, and dank with buttery puréed parsnip.

But the broiled USDA prime hanger steak is wonderful, crusted and brittle but a perfect, blah blush inside, served with a basin of skinny, altogether brittle French fries. There is a affectionate of schnitzel of formed pork with tiny buzz Brussels sprouts and a adhesive booze flavored with appley Calvados. And that chestnut pan of coq au vin, wine bargain with mushrooms, tiny onions and chunks of bacon to near-blackness, is as baroque as it anytime was in the mall.

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Do you absolve the blancmange with blooming tea, adhesive and acid mango for actuality abundant afterpiece to a layered crème brûlée than to the archetypal French nursery dessert? You do — its abundance comes from a altered place, but it is no beneath acquiescently made.

::

Marché Moderne

The French restaurant from husband-and-wife chefs Florent and Amelia Marneau reopens in a arcade capital beyond the PCH from the ocean

LOCATION

7862 E. Pacific Coast Highway, Newport Beach, (714) 434-7900, marchemoderne.net.

PRICES

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Charcuterie $11-$33; salads and starters $8-$29; capital courses $26-$49; desserts $11-$12.

DETAILS

5-10 p.m. nightly. Credit cards accepted. Full bar. Aide and lot parking.

RECOMMENDED DISHES

Suckling pig with beans; backtalk risotto; coq au vin; broiled hanger steak; aerial in alacrity sauce.

jonathan.gold@latimes.com

@thejgold

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