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In December 2008, then-New York Times restaurant analyzer Frank Bruni alone a comestible bombshell. He bestowed three stars on Momofuku Ssäm Bar, an East Village dining allowance with no tablecloths, no affected glassware, and no coffee service. There, central a shoebox-size amplitude abounding with benches and cardboard napkins, diners acclimated tongs to draw at a common broiled pork base and, with their hands, captivated the blah tendrils in bill cups. No restaurant so accidental had accustomed such a distinction, and the account spread. “Chefs from about the apple would appearance up at Ssäm,” Momofuku chef-owner David Chang afterwards said, citation the brand of René Redzepi from Copenhagen’s Noma and Ferran Adrià from Spain. “That analysis took aggregate to a altered stratosphere.”

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Bruni’s booty on Ssäm came aloof afterwards the 2008 banal bazaar crash. In New York City, Wall Street plays no baby role in the restaurant economy, and the aftereffect was on display. “If there was a single, best arresting anecdotal against the end of my time as restaurant critic, it was the clearing of acutely aggressive affable into apprehensive and accidental settings,” says Bruni, whose administration as a analyzer at the Times ran from 2004 to 2009. “Ssäm Bar was the harbinger.”

Will Guidara, co-owner of Eleven Madison Park (which topped the World’s 50 Best Restaurants account in 2017), puts a bigger point on it: “Fine dining was beneath attack.”

A casual-dining anarchy followed, armed with flea bazaar décor, foraged ingredients, and a phalanx of aliment trucks. Fancy, aggressive restaurants with jackets and busy apparatus began to shutter, including Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago (2012), Alain Ducasse’s Adour in New York (2012), and Fleur de Lys in San Francisco (2014). Chefs who didn’t already accept a fast-casual abstraction in their portfolio raced to acquisition one. The ones who backward high-end bound assemblage into tasting menus.

And again in June 2016, at the alpha of a record-breaking 18-month run for the Dow Jones automated average, a restaurant alleged Le Coucou fabricated its admission in New York. Its accessible kitchen showed off aflame chestnut pots and chefs antic tall, white toques. In the advanced of the house, a array of captains in adapted uniforms abounding to barter at candlelit, cloth-topped tables. The card from French-trained chef Daniel Rose smartly tweaked the classics, with dishes such as balmy oysters with seaweed adulate and brittle skinned avoid with foie gras and figs. The prices were additionally elevated: Dover sole with grapes amount $48; a dogie argot amateur with sturgeon caviar went for $38. The abode was an actual success, hosting anybody from Kanye West to Henry Kissinger.

Oysters at the Office in Manhattan about-face up in a amusing conch shell.

Photographer: Adrian Gaut for Bloomberg Businessweek

Just as resoundingly as Ssäm Bar led a beat against the hypercasual, Le Coucou heralded a acknowledgment to bigger dining—but an acquired model. Rather than a library-still ambiance abounding with beige, like New York’s actual academic icons Per Se and Jean-Georges, Le Coucou offered a bright faculty of theater, with arresting lighting and affable service. It angry out the accessible was athirst for a restaurant acquaintance that acquainted not quirkily humble, but like an event. One with absolute chairs instead of stools, area you could accomplish anxiety that would be honored, and area the playlist wasn’t crushingly loud—but anybody was accepting fun.

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A cardinal of analogously absent restaurants, such as Bellota in San Francisco, La Table in Houston, and Del Mar in Washington, accept sprouted up aback the alpha of 2016. Common to anniversary dining experience—call it Luxe Redux—are these items:

1. Reimagined archetypal dishes, about evoking France, the country that invented accomplished dining. French cuisine was set abreast for its adornment in the Brooklyn era.

2. An a la carte menu, with accustomed basin sizes. (Remember appetizers, entrees, and desserts?) This chic of chefs angle the tasting card architecture as too academic and akin and the assortment of aggregate plates as confusing.

3. No burgers. You ability see a devious one on a cafeteria card but about not for dinner. Gone are the canicule aback a restaurant wasn’t accustomed to accessible afterwards a headline-making, Instagram-ready patty smothered in cheese and bacon jam.

4. Table seating, with chairs. Many Luxe Redux restaurants additionally accept counters, but you’ll affront no added about accepting your awkward first-date conversations overheard forth the benches at a common table.

5. Waiters in apprenticed shirts and, yes, suits. A bedrock bandage T-shirt is no best work-appropriate attire. Tattoos, however, are allowed.

6. A new chic of beautiful sommeliers, as adequate with inexpensive, beatnik bottles as the big-ticket ones. “Traditional sommeliers capital to advertise you a $175 canteen of wine. Anything less, and you were asleep to them,” says Kevin Boehm, of Chicago’sBellemore. “This new accumulation came up afterwards the markets crashed, aback restaurants couldn’t allow $80,000-a-year sommeliers” and wine captains became artistic by demography on added roles.

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7. Big-ticket options. If this appearance of dining has a signature dish, it’s duck, abating but added aggressive than buzz chicken. Oh, and caviar. Lots of caviar.

Prime rib-eye tartare is served with mustard aioli.

Photographer: Adrian Gaut for Bloomberg Businessweek

Look at the Office, the classically absent bar and restaurant at New York’s Mandarin Oriental from Nick Kokonas and chef Grant Achatz, the duo abaft the beat Alinea in Chicago. Retro affair accept been reimagined (the Old-Fashioned is fabricated with bananas and miso), and dishes such as prime rib-eye tartare ($45) are busy with tiny herbs and flowers. Kokonas characterizes the Office, which serves oysters in a behemothic argent conch shell, as an “intentional bequest to that array of aphotic mahogany-walled abode from continued ago.”

Or booty Midtown Manhattan’s annoyed Four Seasons, which alone its amplitude in the Seagram Building in July 2016. In its abode came two fancy-but-lively dining apartment in 2017: the Grill and the Pool. At the former, chef Mario Carbone uses a salvaged avoid columnist to accomplish a broiled vegetable sauce, tableside, for his pastas. Co-owner Jeff Zalaznick addendum that the best accepted dishes tend to be the best expensive, including the $67 prime rib and a $92 Dover sole served with backtalk and shrimp. Both are able in advanced of diners by captains clad in Tom Ford tuxedos. Power cafeteria still reigns in this room, which hums at midday with assemblage dabbling at $36 chopped salads. Adjoining the restaurant is the Pool, area chef Affluent Torrisi transforms foie gras terrine into ribbons presented in an ice bowl, with brittle orange chips arrayed on the linen alongside.

It’s not aloof a New York thing. Chicago’s steakhouse-heavy Boka Restaurant Accumulation afresh opened Bellemore, area chef Jimmy Papadopoulos serves an anachronistic-seeming ability pie in a allowance with ample tables and an art deco décor. The agreeable pastry is abounding with affluent ability custard, topped with osetra caviar, and presented with a bottle of Champagne, all for $65.

“I anticipation we’d advertise three of those ability pies a night. We advertise 15,” says Boehm, Boka’s co-founder. “There’s a appeal for this affectionate of dining. People are ailing of sitting in afflictive spaces and administration their food.” Boehm additionally credibility to the plateware as a key aspect of this appearance of dining. “The ceramics is not the hodgepodge that you see in hipster restaurants,” he says. “But it’s additionally not the bright-white Bernardaud. That got so boring.”

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And at the light-filled Del Mar in Washington, chef-owner Fabio Trabocchi makes Spanish cuisine an event. He has his servers, clad in seersucker apparel in accommodating colors, alone basin paella rather than serve it in the acceptable ancestors style.

In Bethesda, Md., Peter Chang, who has a acceptability for ambrosial Sichuan aliment in low-price settings, has opened a flagship alleged Q by Peter Chang, area he’s confined scallops with XO booze ($30) and braised pork abdomen with Chinese biscuit ($26).

The Office additionally dresses up its mussels, in a bright best terrine.

Photographer: Adrian Gaut for Bloomberg Businessweek

At DaDong, the 400-seat Beijing displace in Manhattan, alluringly clad sommeliers action a ambit of glasses, from Champagne to orange wine from California, all beneath ceilings arena black-and-white video art. The signature Peking avoid is $96; administrator of operations Celso Moriera says about bisected of guests acclimation a la carte additionally get the $42 caviar supplement. DaDong’s admiration is aflame baron backtalk in egg-white flan: A accomplished one goes for $560; on average, the restaurant sells bristles a night.

“There’s actually an appetence on diners’ genitalia to be dazzled, and restaurants like Le Coucou and the Grill are answering the call,” says Caroline Potter, arch dining administrator at OpenTable Inc. “However, they’re dialing aback the adornment aback it comes to account and ambiance.”

Those two restaurants are amid the hardest tables to acquisition in New York, and in aboriginal December, aback DaDong opened its catch line, its bookings abounding through February. Hedonism has returned, and these restaurants are affably captivation the door. Even Ssäm Bar has evolved—gone are the benches and chopstick dispensers, replaced by banquettes and absolute napkins.

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“Our ambition isn’t to be the adolescent kid anymore,” David Chang says. “We absitively it was OK to abound up a little bit.”

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