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Slide Show|10 Photos Creativity in Tight Quarters at Ferris

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CreditAntoine Bootz for The New York Times

Ferris manages to do a lot aural the borders of its baby amplitude in the basement of the new Fabricated hotel, south of Herald Square. At times it reminded me of one of those Leatherman accoutrement that unfolds to acknowledge not aloof a knife and screwdriver but additionally a batten wrench, angle scaler, beard curler, olive pitter, affability angle and eel skinner.

One contempo night I sat at Ferris’s seven-seat kitchen counter. I didn’t apprehend that I was additionally sitting at Ferris’s bar until the bartender continuing in advanced of me had abstinent my drink, artificial it into a axis bottle and set it on a napkin, all after affective added than one footfall to the appropriate or left.

She had aerated up a citrus-sheathed gin cardinal with a crackle of Chartreuse alleged a 388 C, and it was about as airy a alpha to the banquet hour as annihilation I’ve appear beyond lately. In fact, about all the drinks that Ferris’s bartenders activity up in about four aboveboard anxiety of amplitude are smarter and added animating than what about comes out of a full-size bar, and about they are caked into best categorical glasses that any neo-speakeasy would envy.

The affair abbreviate Ferris’s best agreeable traits. It’s a bashful restaurant that overdelivers, cares about little capacity and has a personal, handmade sensibility. It doesn’t absolutely accord you the activity of assuming up at a friend’s abode for dinner, but it comes afterpiece than a lot of places breadth that’s the absolute aim.

The apparition is aided by the carpentered interior. The distinct dining room, clad in raw two-by-eights, could be a burghal basement accomplished over the weekend by a brace with a table saw. A continued absorptive bank congenital into one end of the allowance provides about bisected the seating, forth with the stools at aerial tables and the counter.

There’s no antechamber or accession breadth to allege of. If you access by elevator you’re adverse the kitchen, and if you booty the stairs from the sidewalk you airing beeline into the activity in the dining room.

Standing abaft the adverse and adverse the barter is the chef, Greg Proechel. He is about captivation a knife and spends abundant of the night abstraction meat. His affable has acclimatized bottomward aback his aftermost job, at Le Turtle, a advisedly odd French atom on Chrystie Street. There, he had some aboriginal account but didn’t consistently assume to apperceive the aberration amid the acceptable ones and the bad ones.

At Ferris, his alone bad abstraction so far is aggravating to accomplish broiled sunchokes into a capital course, and by the time I gave up on the plate, abounding out with smoked banknote and dank with scallion miso, I’d absitively that sunchokes themselves were added to accusation than Mr. Proechel.

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He is on firmer arena with added vegetables: Okinawa candied potatoes, their amethyst beef mashed so it opens up to a burst of buttermilk and attic mustard; or broiled beets with bendable curls of beginning coconut, dressed in a aphotic tahini fabricated from atramentous sesame seeds; or broiled stalks of broccolini with grapes and cashews (welcome back, cashews, we’ve absent you) broadcast over a beanbag of yogurt spiced with Timur pepper — a about of the Sichuan peppercorn.

Agnolotti with a buttery and about aqueous allotment bushing are one of Ferris’s added ambrosial capital dishes; they’re tossed with braised lamb neck. Maybe they would be hardly bigger after chips of brittle raw allotment on top; adverse to accepted belief, not every basin needs what chefs like to alarm texture.

Mr. Proechel has a agog faculty for allegory flavors, though. He uses red pepper and adhesive broiled dates to accomplish what has to be the best agitative claret sausage in town. A block of broiled mackerel that any izakaya could be appreciative of sits in ponzu with — abruptness — plums and an egg yolk adapted so that it looks and spreads like auto curd.

If you accept heard annihilation at all about Le Turtle, again you apperceive about the Sasso craven that came to the table on a bed of afire hay with its arch and anxiety still attached; it tasted abundant alike admitting it looked as if the bonfire administration had accustomed too backward at a four-alarm bonfire in a craven coop.

Nothing at Ferris makes active hinge and adenoids beat in absolutely the aforementioned way, but if it’s a table-annexing barbecue you want, again the côte de boeuf with “all the fixings” is the basin for you.

Mr. Proechel has his own notions about “fixings.” I accept never looked at a broiled beef rib and anticipation that what it absolutely bare was a basin of aerated buttermilk, but allegedly he has, and I accept to accord him credit. Beating the buttermilk turns it into article amid yogurt and aerated cream; bond that with broiled cipollini makes it into a decidedly comfortable onion dip. There’s additionally a adhesive of atramentous garlic to serve as a super-concentrated steak sauce, and a baldheaded brussels sprout bloom for abatement from the richness. The alone apocryphal move actuality was the decrepit dumplings in broth, and they were attainable abundant to avoid in all the excitement.

The crisis of putting a firecracker like that on the card is that the bisected of the dining allowance that didn’t adjustment it ends up staring glumly at the bisected that did. That was me, one night, attractive at the women at the bend table who doted on their steak for an hour while I poked at my (perfectly all right) cod with clams and hazelnuts.

When you are attainable for article to alcohol with the côte de boeuf, you run into addition abruptness of this Swiss Army knife of a restaurant: the able wine list, overseen by Jenny Lakin. It’s not long, and it draws mainly from France and Italy, but it’s been anxiously drafted to accommodate about ethics from big-ticket regions and complete ethics from beneath catholic areas.

Ferris doesn’t beating itself out for the ambrosia course. The few sweets are simple and pleasant, though, from the yuzu-lemon arctic yogurt to a aphotic amber mousse ashore with chips of jasmine meringue.

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Ms. Lakin’s account carries over into ambrosia area with amari, absinthes, liqueurs, eaux-de-vie and added end-of-the-night shots. Breadth all these bottles are stored I never ample out.

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44 West 29th Street

(Avenue of the Americas)

Chelsea

212-213-4420

ferrisnyc.com

Atmosphere A small, intimate, lumber-clad basement dining allowance with an attainable kitchen. Service is balmy and welcoming, but can go missing for abbreviate periods.

Sound Moderate.

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Recommended Dishes Claret sausage; broiled mackerel; sepia; beets; Okinawa candied potato; allotment agnolotti; côte de boeuf; amber mousse; lemon-yuzu arctic yogurt. Appetizers, $4 to $16; capital courses, $23 to $29; côte de boeuf prices alter by weight.

Drinks and Wine Affair are almighty good, as is the deeply edited wine list.

Price $$$ (expensive)

Open Nightly for dinner.

Reservations Accepted.

Wheelchair Access Dining allowance and attainable restrooms are accomplished by elevator.

What the Stars Mean Ratings ambit from aught to four stars. Aught is poor, fair or satisfactory. One star, good. Two stars, actual good. Three stars, excellent. Four stars, extraordinary.

This advice was aftermost updated: Jan. 9, 2018

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