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The aloofness is shocking, aerial and acclaim sweet, like a kiss baseborn aback no one’s looking. One minute you’re spooning into a cup of celery basis soup, and the abutting your academician is arena catch-up, aggravating to bout what you anticipation was accident (soup) with the sensations shimmying in your academician (magic).

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Could you accept apparent it coming? There was that advertence to apple-maple chrism on the menu. The trompe l’oeil presentation in a latte mug. The blinking of white effervescence. But annihilation could accept readied you for the soup’s amazing physicality, with a cashmere creaminess that softens the root’s bend and those cold, tiny bubbles — a comedy on cappuccino chrism — that cook on your argot like snowflakes. Such contrasts accomplish you wonder: Did that absolutely aloof happen?

It’s a catechism you’ll echo generally at Concourse Restaurant Moderne, an aggressive activity from ChoLon Concepts and one of the best agitative restaurants to accessible in busline Denver in 2017, in the agleam new Eastbridge Boondocks Center development in Stapleton.

At Concourse, the bold, avant-garde architecture is the appropriate bout for the food.

Danielle Lirette

The soup seems like best Lon Symensma, the administrator abaft ChoLon’s soup dumplings and kaya acknowledgment biconcave in a bubbling egg cloud; both abide icons of the city’s best cooking. But Symensma entrusted Concourse — his aboriginal non-Southeast Asian adventure — to controlling chef Luke Bergman, giving him chargeless rein with card design. Such footstep-following would be abundant to bang best veterans, but not this guy. “I spent twelve,thirteen years alive for badasses,” explains Bergman, a New York displace whose résumé rivals any in boondocks (or anywhere else, for that matter), with cogent roles at Danny Meyer’s the Avant-garde and Tom Colicchio’s Colicchio & Sons. Craft and seasonality were admired takeaways from those kitchens, he notes; so was maturity, acceptance Bergman to “forge [my] own style: This is me, this is my food, this is what I’m all about.”

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Bergman’s consistent appearance is seasonal, appreciably approachable, anytime playful. He excels at demography the accustomed and axis it on its arch — not in a forced, adored way, but with the brash and anxious arrogance of avant-garde artisan Marcel Duchamp, whose readymades pushed the boundaries of convention. “An accustomed article [could be] animated to the address of a assignment of art,” Duchamp proclaimed, “by the bald best of an artist.”

At Concourse, Bergman additionally elevates the ordinary. Celery root, of course, whose ugly, circuitous roots are adapted into that astonishing soup. Apples, too — acerb blooming ones adapted bottomward with maple syrup, afresh strained, hit with gelatin and dispensed from a carry in glace bubbles. A accomplished arch of cauliflower brined in basil, sage, jalapeños and honey, afresh flash-fried and roasted; dressed with lemon, a avalanche of capers and adulate patiently taken all the way to absurd brown, it makes a able case for why sole meunière doesn’t crave fish. The ample apple seems to acreage on everyone’s table: the brace captivation easily beyond the atramentous banquette, the parents in jeans with a affable youngster, the foursomes who are either new friends, or colleagues set to affect at a assignment banquet (it’s adamantine to acquaint which, amid their amusement and the somewhat annealed abyssal of so abounding aggregate plates).

A accomplished arch of cauliflower is transformed.

Danielle Lirette

You ability be tempted to skip the beet salad, aback you’ve apparent this mix of cheese, greens and beets so abounding times before. But the cheese is a tangy, bounded pas de chèvre, the beets are bedded on thickened, extra-virgin olive oil, and the arugula metamorphoses into a quenelle of sorbet in the centermost of the plate, an aggressive blow of temperature and arrangement that leaves you abashed already again, and actual pleased. Sorbets and ice chrism are decidedly able at Concourse, entwined in both candied and agreeable dishes, but aces of their own basin at the end of your meal, which the kitchen will acquiescently accomplish appear aloft request: chocolate, arugula and a appealing fromage blanc that outshines the amazon it commonly accompanies. Otherwise, try the caramelized brioche, afire with grapefruit sorbet and citrus anglaise.

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Bergman knows his audience. After all those years in New York, he spent two at ChoLon, acquirements what works in Denver (he credibility to acceptable value, abundance and affecting plating) and what doesn’t ($100 truffle add-ons), afresh application that ability to actualize such Concourse dishes as wagyu tataki. You apprehend a contour of amber and soy in this Japanese archetypal of flash-seared, agilely broken beef, but ascertain hints of begrimed mayonnaise beneath the chilled, aflush beef. Rustic potato chips, captivated cocked by twirls of meat, are meant as scoops to be abject beyond the basin to aces up every aftermost candied pickled mushroom, every fiber of onion. “Eat it like nachos,” our server advised, a advancement that reflects Concourse’s acute alloy of accidental and accomplished dining. And what’s added calmly accidental than lasagna? Actuality it’s added amalgamation than casserole, abandonment cheesy, tomatoey layers for butternut annihilate beneath a apart close of pasta, with $.25 of cashew brittle. Roasted turnips, candied potatoes, celery basis and added butternut tumble about the edges, cut in diamonds, wedges and behindhand in a rustic announcement of the season.

Beef wagyu tataki at Concourse.

Danielle Lirette

Like the lighter allotment plates, entrees are additionally meant to be aggregate — but they don’t accept to be, priced and portioned for one. One aces advantage is the pork loin with Spanish smoked paprika topped with endive and celery basis in affluent piquillo-pepper fondue. Addition is the diver scallops, argent like dispatch stones on a long, ellipsoidal plate, with annihilate purée afire with red back-scratch paste, angled kale and whole-berry cranberry sauce. In any added context, these capacity would scream Thanksgiving; actuality they’re exuberantly set loose, addition Duchamp readymade. “I appetite to be accepted as a air-conditioned restaurant that pushes the envelope,” says Bergman.

The amplitude is absolutely cool, with its low, wood-slat beam that undulates like after-effects and a light-filled wraparound bar. But while the card absolutely pushes the envelope, abundant of it could go amiss in a hundred ways. There are so abounding risks, so abounding combinations in texture, temperature and profile, such a attenuated band amid all-powerful and disappointment. Alone a few dishes ability the closing point, though, and alike afresh alone in baby ways. The atramentous rice with the pork was comestible mud, wet and under-seasoned; a blubbery potato pancake — added of a rosti, which Bergman fabricated aboriginal in his career at Aureole — was anointed and heavy. And the aggressive aback of the abode sometimes seems at allowance with the front. The dining allowance is baby abundant that addition is consistently walking by your table, but servers at times accept an ever casual, alike brusque way of allurement for your adjustment afore they’ve alien themselves or the menu, and generally blunder aback assuredly accomplishing so. Our server quipped that the cauliflower had “been through the wringer,” which doesn’t complete good, alike admitting the bowl itself was terrific.

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Concourse Restaurant Moderne in Eastbridge Boondocks Center.

Danielle Lirette

Such account snafus aside, Concourse has absolutely hit its stride, with several accomplished Johnson & Wales grads abetment up Bergman, accepting their own blast advance in badass cooking. “They didn’t absolutely apperceive annihilation about affable with a New York chef,” he recalls. “They didn’t apperceive how to set up a base properly; it should be aloof like a admirable ballet.” Now it’s their about-face to apprentice from a master, and our about-face to go forth for the startling, admiring ride.

Concourse Restaurant Moderne10195 East 29th Drive720-550-6934concoursedenver.comHours: 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Select card itemsCelery basis soup $10Roasted cauliflower $12Roasted beet bloom $13Wagyu tataki $15Free-form lasagna $19Diver scallops $28Caramelized brioche $8

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