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300 W. Jericho Tpke., Huntington Station

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631-421-6001, matteosristorante.com

COST: $$-$$$

SERVICE: Smooth and attentive

AMBIENCE: Designed to impress

ESSENTIALS: Open Monday to Thursday 5 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 p.m., Sunday 3 to 9 p.m. Weekend anxiety recommended; above acclaim cards accepted; wheelchair accessible.

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The Empire State Building was completed in a bit added than a year. It took three to clean Matteo’s.

The aftereffect is actually Long Island’s best abundant destination for Italian-American favorites and family-style dining. Single portions are available. Fair prices for both ensure a binding stop.

Jerry Sbarro, who owns Rothmann’s Steakhouse in East Norwich and three added Matteo’s, delivers an upbeat, full-flavored, actual acceptable awakening of a dining appearance that has been a basic for decades. Matteo’s has been about for added than 25 years.

Matteo’s Trattoria & Bar, as it’s now formally called, greets you with an exoteric architecture that bridges the bendability of a big coffer and the calmness of a mausoleum. Once inside, it anon gets lively, from the jammed, double-height wraparound bar to a leash of dining areas with basement for 200 diners, and tables that generally serve three generations.

The capital allowance glows not alone from the carve of faux broiler that catches your eye, but with bendable lighting, aphotic copse and black-and-white photos that advance Italian scenes from Fellini and Rossellini.

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Nella Vetrina Costantini Dress 9285TR Modern Italian Dining Table | Italian Kitchen Tables | Italian Kitchen Tables

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You’ll additionally acquisition abate spaces with angle of the kitchen, area a above appearance is underway. Executive chef Dennis Borysowski oversees the kitchen.

Nibble on crisply absurd calamari and adorable broiled clams oreganata. Or try the sauteed, bang prawns with acidity to bout their size. Octopus, however, arrives added singed than grilled. And the robiola pizza, afflicted by truffle oil, and the pie capped with a adumbration of Gorgonzola and prosciutto and a autumn of arugula, anniversary crave some fine-tuning.

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Satisfy your charge for cheese with the mozzarella selections. Enjoy balmy mozzarella, appealing mozzarella di bufala, near-decadent burrata, absolute with baldheaded atramentous truffle, broiled peppers, prosciutto di Parma, a fig compote, honey, pancetta.

Matteo’s stands out with several pastas. Leading them: a riff on pappardelle alla Bolognese and a agreeable adaptation of bucatini all’Amatriciana. The cheese ravioli battling them. Matteo’s wanders off-script with a decidedly banal fettuccine alla carbonara.

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Befitting the Rothmann’s connection, the band steak with potatoes and shishito peppers is a juicy, prime pick. The circuit on dogie chop Valdostana comes in on the dry side. But breakable “osso buco,” fabricated with pork, shallots and augment espagnole sauce, enriches the proceedings; and the admixture of sausage and broccoli rabe stays anxiously good.

Seaside, shrimp Luciano with tomatoes and sauteed appearance has purist appeal. But Sicilian-style atramentous sea bass turns bitter from an balance of blue capers.

If you can fit dessert: bombolini, or the Italianate aberration on the doughnut via zeppole; a block of tiramisu; appetizing New York cheesecake; or biscotti with cannoli cream. If not, well, you’ll be back.

Matteo’s Trattoria & Bar: account the wait.

Since 1985, Peter M. Gianotti has been the restaurant analyzer at Newsday, area he additionally reviews books.

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