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When The Advocate — the high-profile restaurant from the aggregation abaft the acknowledged Comal — bankrupt in 2016 afterwards aloof one year in business, it larboard a ample aperture in the dining arena in Berkeley’s bizarre Elmwood neighborhood.

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Last October, Chef Donato Scotti abounding the abandoned and the ample restaurant amplitude on Ashby Avenue with Donato & Co., the latest in his cord of restaurants that includes Redwood City’s Donato Enoteca and CRU, and up until recently, Desco in Old Oakland.

Donato & Co. is a carefully Italian affair, with the requisite farm-to-table California slant. Scotti brought on Italian chef Gianluca Guglielmi to arch the kitchen. Guglielmi has formed at several Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy and was an controlling with the Bay Area’s Italian importer and grocer, A.G. Ferrari Foods.

Donato & Co. retains abundant of the attending and feel of The Advocate, including the ample black-and-white accurate murals (Italian countryside scenes alter the images of the Berkeley campus) and the Meyer Sound arrangement that muffles the babble babble so you’re able to apprehend your dining partners. The accessible kitchen now emphasizes a wood-fire affable breadth breadth best of the meats are prepared, and a pop of Italy is acutely on affectation with a refurbished Vespa overlooking the dining area.

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The ample bar with a common table is additionally still there, and Donato’s bar affairs includes a alternative of specialty cocktails. Back I visited for dinner, I approved a accurately counterbalanced alcohol alleged the Milk & Honey ($11), fabricated with Old Forester bourbon, lemon, white wine abridgement and a band of egg white foam.

The card isn’t your archetypal Italian restaurant architecture with appetizers, and aboriginal and additional courses. Instead, the bound card is burst into four sections: “Farm & Fields” (mostly salads), “Salt & Water” (cured items and mini pizzas alleged “pizzelle”), “Pasta & Co.” (obviously, all the pasta dishes) and “Iron & Fire” (items advancing from the open-fire kitchen and rotisserie).

Donato additionally afresh started weekend brunch service, for which I alone in to analysis out the afresh fabricated Italian-style pastries and aliment by Chef Guglielmi. (Full disclosure: I was arrive as a bedfellow of the abode to analysis out Donato’s brunch menu, but I paid my own way back I alternate for dinner.)

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What I acknowledge about the banquet card is that you can adjustment abounding of the items at bisected orders, absolution you try added of a array of dishes. For example, a abounding adjustment of the pizzelle — mini pizzas the admeasurement of the acceptable Italian cossack cookie — gets you three, while a bisected adjustment agency you accept aloof one. The broccoli and pecorino pizzelle I approved was appetizing but the chef is added bread-like and beneath like the thin-crust pizza begin about town.

One of the added often-recommended dishes is the bloom of bounded red adorned greens and caramelized walnuts, which serve as a backup for the brittle uovo, which agency egg in Italian. The alertness is generally acclimated to actualize a ravioli with a soft-boiled yolk inside, but for this salad, a abounding egg is encased in breadcrumbs, again deep-fried. It’s an absorbing presentation, but the night I approved it the yolk in my uovo was about above — abrogation actual little “sauce” to advance about the salad.

The afresh fabricated pasta is adapted perfectly, like the pappardelle with Liberty avoid ragu adapted in Sangiovese wine, thyme and Grana Padano ($9 half/$17 full). And the signature bowl is the Il Maiale ($9/$21), a bowl of porky advantage served three ways:house-made pork sausage, ribs and brittle pork abdomen with abandon of borlotti beans and angled Savoy cabbage. This bowl is additionally on the brunch menu, confined up aloof the sausage with an added absurd egg.

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Speaking of brunch, one bowl that screams breakfast is the frico block ($10), which is a brittle backup fabricated of potato and cheese that carries a poached egg with salsa bernese. Perfect abundance food, abnormally with the egg adapted at the appropriate amount (I admired my uovo was added like this) and the allegory arrangement from the brittle potatoes.

Dessert includes a few items with Italian influences. The crema cotta ($8) is fabricated with a creme caramel alloyed with a admirable rosemary essence. The arrangement is blubbery like a creme brûlée but bland like a panna cotta.

In some ways, Donato & Co. picks up breadth The Advocate larboard off, absorbing bounded families attractive for a large, handsome amplitude for a night out. The California sensibilities still authority true, while the Italian touches feel accurate and opens one’s eyes to bounded Italian cooking.

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Benjamin Seto is the articulation abaft Focus:Snap:Eat, breadth he dishes on aliment at restaurants and shops in the Bay Area, in his kitchen, and from his comestible adventures.

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