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FM Burger with tots at FM Kitchen & Bar

FM Burger with tots at FM Kitchen & Bar

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The Greek Bloom at FM Kitchen & Bar

The Greek Bloom at FM Kitchen & Bar

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Texas Pot Pie with smoked brisket, bbq gravy, carrots, mushrooms, onion, peas and a cheddar pastry at FM Kitchen & Bar

Texas Pot Pie with smoked brisket, bbq gravy, carrots, mushrooms, onion, peas and a cheddar pastry at FM Kitchen & Bar

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Fried Shrimp and hushpuppies at FM Kitchen & Bar

Fried Shrimp and hushpuppies at FM Kitchen & Bar

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FM Amber Shake at FM Kitchen & Bar

FM Amber Shake at FM Kitchen & Bar

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The patio at FM Kitchen & Bar

The patio at FM Kitchen & Bar

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The dining allowance at FM Kitchen & Bar

The dining allowance at FM Kitchen & Bar

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Inside FM Kitchen & Bar

Inside FM Kitchen & Bar

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FM Magarita at FM Kitchen & Bar

FM Magarita at FM Kitchen & Bar

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The Mary, Rick and Rose cocktail at FM Kitchen & Bar

The Mary, Rick and Rose cocktail at FM Kitchen & Bar

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Fire pit at FM Kitchen & Bar

Fire pit at FM Kitchen & Bar

Review: FM Kitchen & Bar plays to Houston’s icehouse-loving heart

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The temperature was 39 degrees aback I met a acquaintance for supper at FM Kitchen & Bar on New Year’s Day. Hunched as I was into my Montreal-weight fake-fur coat, I had to beam appreciatively at the afterimage of three able guys aggregate about the blaze pit out front, area barbecue tables, gravel, Astroturf and bold setups authority sway. They were bubbler beer and attractive blessed with life.

Not alike a miserably algid day in our subtropical winter can annihilate Houstonians’ appetence for the icehouse lifestyle, as the acceptance of FM Kitchen and its latter-day cohorts (Southern Goods, Presidio, Cottonwood, et alia) can attest.

Inside FM’s handsome steel-and-glass gridded box was a arranged house. The Rose Basin played on assorted big screens. Bartenders drew bounded brews and able batched affair from the tap wall. Trays of burgers and absurd things and bizarre milkshakes a bottom alpine issued alternating from the kitchen on their way to the bar counters, aerial bar tables and added adjustment seating, as able-bodied as to the fire-pit survivalists out front.

FM Kitchen & Bar

One star

1112 Shepherd, 832-804-6006

Hours: L&D: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays & Saturdays. Breakfast served Saturdays & Sundays.

Credit cards: all major

Prices: starters $4.29-$11.69; entrees $5.89-$14.29; abandon $2.69-$4.29; desserts $3.89-$6.89

Must-orders: FM Burger; shrimp & avocado Campechana; FM Gumbo; Greek salad; lemon-thyme brick chicken; Texas Pot Pie; Mary, Rick & Rose cocktail; FM amber or boilerplate shakes

Reservations: aboriginal come, aboriginal served

Noise level: moderate

Parking: absorbed lot and some artery parking

Website: fmkitchenandbar.com

STAR RATINGS

Four stars: superlative; can authority its own on a civic stage. Three stars: excellent; one of the best restaurants in the city. Two stars: actual good; one of the best restaurants of its kind. One star: a acceptable restaurant that we recommend. No stars: restaurant cannot be recommended.

This is the absurd ambience in which chef Ryan Hildebrand, of the backward accelerating affluence restaurant Triniti, plies his ability these days. He and buyer Chong Yi, his Triniti patron, are aggravating their duke at a accustomed Texas-cafe aliment blueprint that’s bearing solid after-effects and some 18-carat highlights.

The burger that was meant to be the centerpiece of the operation is a agitating one: bunched and cautiously detailed, with a amount tag beneath 6 bucks. The patty of sirloin, abandon and brisket weighs in at 4 ounces, which makes the burger accessible to handle and eat. (Those who crave meat mountains can advancement with added patties or options on a burger-specials list.)

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WATERING HOLE: Hip Heights crowd, icehouse audience hit new bar

Sea alkali and pepper absurd in house, accumulated with a nice, aciculate sear, accord the patty its character. And all the elements click, from the broiled potato bun to the acceptable delicacy of broiled American cheese, alike unto the able “secret” booze that combines mayo, ketchup and alacrity with a activated attempt of minced pickle.

I’d arise to FM aloof to eat the burger, but there are added accomplished attractions. Foremost, perhaps, is a appreciably clean, garden-fresh adaptation of the Campechana cocktail Houstonians adulation to eat. Hunks of poached shrimp accommodated cubed avocado in a light, acerb herbal ablution that’s not advised bottomward by ketchup. Cubed cucumber and blooming pepper add some acceptable crunch. So aesthetic was the aftereffect that I biconcave up every aftermost bead of bathrobe with a spoon, as if it were a decidedly adorable soup.

Greek bloom is addition basin that allowances from Hildebrand’s chefly touch: The feta cheese is smoked, so that it adds a baking affection to the tumble of greens, accomplished alarm peppers and red onion. A adroit vinaigrette gets a division of a broiled auto to add acidity to taste. You’ll acquisition blue Kalamata olives ambuscade in the greens thicket, as able-bodied as some abrupt pickled jalapeños. Puro Tejas.

To apprehend this commodity in one of Houston’s most-spoken languages, bang on the button below.

It’s abundant to accept ablaze choices like these on what is contrarily a boxlike card of solid Texana. There are ample absurd shrimp in crumb-type coating, served with both accomplished house-made tartar and remoulade sauces. OK, the big hushpuppies with it ability be a mite too solid, but they’re affectionate of endearing.

Chicken absurd steak seemed aloof OK aback I sampled it: I was attractive for added action in the black-pepper-and-bacon-gravy treatment, and the formed cut of beef did not move me. The $10.69 amount did not accommodate mashed potatoes, either – those were $3.29 extra. Honestly, I’d rather pay alert the absolute and get a bigger cut of meat. I’ve been baby by our city’s chicken-fried rib-eyes.

What I did admire, though, was a lemon-thyme “brick chicken” with alacrity gravy and bisected a broiled garlic bulb: a absolutely aloof basin of aliment accomplished well, the craven beefy and dank (not abiding area the brick came in), its booze brisk. It seemed odd not to accept article besides craven to advance all that garlic goo on, though. I would acquiescently accept accustomed one of the admirable biscuits that arise for breakfast/brunch on weekends, and that I ambition were offered all the time.

Biscuits and broiled garlic? Como no?

I did try said biscuit with a assemblage of absurd chicken, accolade egg and agave butter, though, and begin it good. But … defective a assertive something. I looked about in arrogant for the Puerto Rican-style annoyance booze that had activated one of my aboriginal visits, aback back temperatures were still hitting amateur digits. Finally, I asked about it. Turns out it is served alone by appeal now because bodies were bistro too much.

That is what I alarm a black about-face of events. Ration it if you must, but don’t adumbrate my admired annoyance abroad as if it were bootleg hooch.

While it’s still algid outside, accede Hildebrand’s gumbo, its abject added a dark, salty-hot borsch than a thickened, cooked-down roux, its burden a mix of broken andouille, shrimp and a brace oysters. At $12.49, a few added oysters would accept been nice, but the acidity was there. And if you appetite to eat your borsch Thibodeaux style, there’s an excellent, eggy potato-salad ancillary basin you can bang into your basin instead of the accepted rice.

IN PINEHURST: Head out to find Tex-Mex that’s a cut above

The priciest account on the menu, at $14.29, is additionally the best unexpected: a Texas Pot Pie that hides cubes of smoked brisket, mushrooms and vegetables beneath a sprawling lid of cheddar-spangled breath pastry. Slash it accessible and a hasty “bbq gravy” snakes out from the steam, its flavors counterbalanced amid sweet, alkali and tart. It’s agreeable stuff, about fabricated to go with your admired bounded beer, and abundant for two bodies to share.

There is aliment pudding for dessert, but it is stolid. Bigger to bounce for one of the crazy shakes, aerial diplomacy capped with aerated cream, arctic pretzels and whatsis, with abstract coil bottomward the abdomen of their Mason-jar vessels. They eat added like soft-serve sundaes than shakes, and both the amber and boilerplate versions are lots of fun.

So are the affair supervised by Ravinder Bath, an alum of Triniti, Beaver’s and Hearsay. There’s an accomplished tap margarita on the rocks, for one; a admirable Old Fashioned affected with apple, walnut and boilerplate bitters; and a accurately counterbalanced Mary, Rick and Rose in which gin, adhesive and soda accommodated rosemary syrup, and the abstract keeps its place. Stick with affair such as these or beer – because the abbreviate account of wines is dreary.

The arena is annihilation but. The automated allowance (by Jim Herd’s Collaborative Projects) with best roadside Texana (by autogenous artist Erin Hicks), is a adequate abode to watch antic events, and big amateur consistently assume to draw a crowd. Accomplished acclimate brings an indoor-outdoor vibe, with big bottle doors and windows befuddled open, and a celebration of dogs, kids, families and dude-bros adequate the ping pong table and umbrella-shaded patio.

An amenable adhere with accustomed Texas abundance foods may be a continued way from Triniti, but it’s abutting to this city’s icehouse-loving heart.

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